The Boyne Valley Trips
by Adrienne Hume, May 2025
The sun appears to have left us for the moment, but it was fully with us on our 3 recent fantastic outings in the expert hands of Prof. Roger Stalley, Anthony Murphy and Geraldine and Matthew Stout.
Sunday 4th May 2025 – Tara with Edel Breathnach
Most unfortunately our trip to Tara has had to be postponed, due to the temporary incapacity of the equally wonderful Edel Bhreathnach. We wish Edel a speedy and full recovery, and look forward to this trip with her at a time that suits her in the future.
Thursday 8th May 2025 – Monasterboice & Mellifont with Roger Stalley
Roger very kindly took time out from his Gothic adventures to enthral us with his vivid descriptions and interpretations of the Art work on the 2 famous High Crosses at Monasterboice. Entertaining, erudite and charming always, R oger held his audience in the palm of his hands – even enticing a few extra strays into his orbit.
We could have listened to him all day, but the poor man needed a break before he again entranced us at Mellifont that afternoon – where the excited site guides promptly locked up and joined our group for what turned out to be an even more fascinating afternoon on the history of the first great Cistercian House in Ireland and it’s vagaries over time.
We were even ‘blessed’ with a visitation from a real modern day Cistercian – the Bursar, conducting business at the site.
Most interesting conversations ensued concerning the future of our beloved modern Cistercian Abbeys, before Roger again vividly brought to life the ruined buildings of Mellifont and their functions, entrancing and educating both amateur and tour guide alike!
To have been in the company of such a renowned expert on Cistercian Architecture and the early Irish High Crosses, and to have had the benefit of his learning and expertise most generously given, in glorious sunshine was truly a gift to all of us lucky enough to have been there.
Saturday 17th May 2025 – Loughcrew Cairns & Fourknocks with Anthony Murphy
Anthony was equally fortunate with the weather, leading us up to (arguably!) the most beautifully situated passage grave cemetery in the country, on top of Loughcrew, on a glorious day. Always a truly magical place, but particularly so on the day of our visit, where he also shared his vast knowledge of the archaeology and lore of the Neolithic with us.
Always with Anthony, his love for his subject, and the myths that enhance and decorate this mysterious prehistoric period, are ever to the fore. He discussed many of the partially ruined passage tombs with us, and pointed out examples of their mysterious art work. He talked about the legends associated with the Cailleach, and her famed hop across the four hills, dropping stones from her apron as she went!!!
It was a glorious morning spent sensing the presence of our ancestors in this beautiful, peaceful, mystical and sacred place.
That afternoon we visited the little known and most unusual passage tomb at Fourknocks, where yet again Anthony managed to bring the experience to vivid life for all of us. We spent much time studying and discussing the artwork, and hypothesising about possible meanings. Yet again, we were enthralled and unwilling to leave.
In both locations we again ‘picked up’ interested outsiders who were as enthralled by Anthony’s tales as we were, and who assured us that they would be joining our society!
Many of us bought Anthony’s book on Fourknocks and I can assure you that it is a most interesting read.
Sunday 18th May 2025 – Bective Abbey & Beaubec with Geraldine & Matthew Stout
The sun gods were again with us when we arrived at Bective Abbey, and were immediately swept up by the whirlwind of enthusiasm and vast knowledge lightly held, that is always Geraldine Stout, and her husband Matthew. Bective is their site and they know it intimately. Geraldine expertly guided us through and around the complex and confusing mass of surviving impressive buildings, making sense for us of the various different periods of development and occupation, and insisting that if we left knowing only the 3 most important periods of construction, we would not have failed her! All answers to us please – there might just be a little prize.
Many questions were asked and many interesting answers further enhanced our understanding of this impressive site. Previously un-noted decorated stones were discovered by newly energised participants – how could it be otherwise in the presence of such a ball of energy as Geraldine!
Strands of thought and discussion topics were further elaborated on by Matthew, who further subdivided the stages of construction…
That afternoon we were treated to an examination of another of their sites, Beaubec Grange, a site with a fascinating and previously little known history, as it was associated with a French House, and required much research and archaeology to piece together it’s interesting story.
Matthew described the discovery of a huge barn, the remains unearthed underground during their excavations, and now completely invisible on the surface again.
Apparently the finds in the latrine area provided a huge number of interesting pieces which both Geraldine and Matthew described for us.
Much credit here is also due to the excellent custodial interest and drive of the owner John McCullen, who also gave us a most interesting talk about the C18th house built on the site and now sadly reduced to its foundations – could it be an Edward Lovett Pearse creation…. Only time will tell!
Retrospectively, our 3 days (so far!) have provided a brief overview of the pre- Reformation history of the Irish Church.
We began with one of the most famous early Irish Monasteries – Monasterboice, focusing on the most characteristic element of these early Monasteries – the outstanding stone High Crosses. Then we moved on to the first Irish Cistercian House – Mellifont, brought to Ireland in an effort to tidy up and organise those Irish Monks who were a law unto themselves!!!!
Then Mellifont’s first daughter House – Bective, and it’s subsequent history until the dissolution.
Both Mellifont and Bective were later turned into impressive private residences. We also attempted to clear some of the mists of time by delving into the possible ritual and religious (?) motivations of our prehistoric ancestors – the first farmers.
What a lovely few days we have had so far in the company of such experts, to whom we owe a huge debt of gratitude – Thank you Roger, Anthony, Geraldine and Matthew.
There may yet be more in the Boyne area – so watch this space!!!!
See you all soon in Tullamore, Adrienne
